Argentina - 2010

Con Permiso

I just recently embarked upon amazing journey to a far away land – Argentina.

For those of you who plan to go someday, or simply want to read about the world through my eyes, I am finally inspired to blog about it. Enjoy!

I’m hungry.

Argentina was never on my radar as a place to visit. Plus, the year was so busy committed helping others’ projects, trying to prove myself at a new job, and desperately trying to stay balanced with workouts/yoga/volunteering.

But I got inspired and the timing just worked out.

My friend and I arrived in Buenos Aires, starving, after a long travel day. We stayed at the Hotel Republica Wellness & Spa - Buenos Aires, right in the heart of city center. It was a peaceful place – where the birds chirped in the middle of the night and woke you up in the morning. (By peaceful I mean loud and by birds I mean sirens and honking horns). I recommend renting an apartment in Palermo – it is cheaper and nicer. Just read reviews, search creatively online, make phone calls/emails, and book accordingly. Hotels.com is not a good source.

We arrived on a census day – where the entire city was closed. We didn’t believe our hotel clerk when he said that – so we ventured off into the city, passing the historic obelisk and making our way to the river. Sushi restaurants everywhere, tons of pizza and pasta (Argentina’s culture has a Italian influence), and sandwich shops. Everything was closed. Good learning – the city is shutdown for the census. But it opens back up at 8.

We ended up eating at our hotel, deeply unsatisfied. However, we made up for it at dinner, finding a cute small restaurant with live accordion music.

I loved the area around Recoletta – there is a famous cemetery there that is a major tourist attraction. Evita is buried there. It’s beautiful and creepy. Affluence is apparent, sort of wasteful, but interesting. It may be more interesting if you know more about the local history or other figures buried there. Plus with my beliefs in reincarnation, and my lack of love for cemeteries in general didn’t help. I was pretty creeped out. Don’t expect to request a tomb there unless you’re rich, famous, amazing, and probably Argentinean.

However, I enjoyed the outside – the people, the market, and the art shops. There is also a wonderful modern art museum near by, with a pleasant collection of a little bit of everything. From Picassos, to Renior, to Jackson Polluck – and of course local artists inspired by the greats. The main exhibit was from a local artist who I thought was a freak. Can’t remember his name. I’ll update if I do.

Buenos Aires – eh – it was alright. I think I may have been allergic to it at times.
Weather was nice, the people were friendly, the food was great if you loved steak.

Stop looking at my Calafates

Next stop, El Calafate, about a 4 hour plane ride south to the Patagonian region. We stayed an awesome B&B - Hosteria Meulen with a view of the lake. You can take a bus I believe, but we took a plane through Aerolíneas Argentinas. If you plan to travel to other regions of Argentina – book flights ahead of time through this airline, or book a bus. It is never guaranteed that you’ll have a seat if you plan last minute. You can buy blocks of trips (similar to that of a Eurrail pass but for flights).

A smaller town, ahhh…now I was on vaca. I arrived and was provided with a shot – some rum mixed with El Calafate berry juice. The staff said ‘my pleasure’ with every thank you. And Negrita, the hotel’s dog, wanted to shake your hand as you drank your tea on the outdoor patio. About a 10 minute cab right into town – don’t walk into town. I almost got eaten by dogs that way. They were not as nice as Negrita. And, I swear, they were real!

We went on a beautiful evening horseback ride one evening. I miss my horse, Surgas (not to be confused with’con gas.’) But the highlight of this trip was a 10 hour day, dedicated to hiking on Perrito Moreno – a glacier. Book through Hielo y Aventura (through your hotel or you can go straight their agency, just ask your hotel to give you directions) – and make sure you book ‘Big Ice.’ You have to pack your own lunch and bring an empty water bottle – you can fill your bottle with glacier water! Your crampon equipment is included, so dress in layers, it’s an intermediate hike. It is a must see, you can’t leave Calafate without doing this…

Soy un Professional!

Now a short flight to Ushuaia. It’s cold and beautiful – the snowcapped Andes are your backdrop. You can take a boat to see a view of Antartica – again – easy to get tours, travel agencies everywhere. I went on a boat ride while the rest of the crew went on a hike. It was one of my favorite days – I met locals, hung out with school kids, and saw a 360 view of the Andes. Plus, I wowed some 11 year olds with my skills in tic-tac-toe. Because, I am a professional of course.

Stay in a cabin here. And the town is pretty small, you can walk to local attractions – as long as you can read the map. And make sure you hook yourself up with some king crab.

Love is in the Air
Back to Buenos Aires – ahh and a very crappy hotel. But this time, I got to buy some art and see live Tango dancers in the street. I was sad to leave, but ready to come home and have some chicken tikka masala. But here are something that I will remember:

- It cost $140 to get in the country upon arrival, they accept credit cards and this is good for 10 years.
- The ‘elle’ or double ‘l’ is pronounced like a ‘ch’ sound. So ‘ella’ would be ‘echa.’ And DON’T use the word ‘coger’ in Argentina. Just don’t.
- Love is everywhere, and it is so beautiful. People are so open with their affection, no matter what age. And it is tasteful and sweet. I did find myself wondering what people were saying in between kisses – there was so much chatter. Are they whispering sweet nothings? Are they talking about running errands? What could they possibly be saying so blissfully, in between giggles and kisses?
- Don’t forget to bring that empty bottle of water for the glacier hike. One you go glacier water, it’s hard to go back. Make sure you’re in shape, otherwise skip the 6 hour hike.
- Don’t tip the cab drivers, check all of your change. Tip in restaurants at 10% if it’s not included. And make sure you ask for the check, it’s Euro style, relaxed dining.
- If you want to bring back wine, check in 2 bags (assuming you are buying wine from the airport and you have a connection somewhere in the US. If you don’t buy wine from the airport, put it in your checked bag.) Make sure that one of your bags has space for the wine, then put the wine in that bag when you arrive at your connection. You will do this at customs. Also, they do not sell San Juan wine at the airport – I recommend buying some before you get there.
- If you like spicy food, bring your own masala ;)
- Talk to the locals, they know the best restaurants and places to go. Don’t be shy.
- I plan to go back someday to go wine tasting in Mendoza, see the waterfalls in Bariloche, maybe hike another glacier, and take a day trip to Uruguay (from Buenos Aires).
- When booking flights with the regional airline, your baggage rules apply from your original trip. So no need to really pack light. Also, don't book trips too close together - the airline makes a lot of mistakes and has random delays. It sucks, but allow yourself 1 day for the travel and start your touring the next day.
- For more specific questions and names of restaurants, etc, contact me directly. I could write about this trip for hours...